Any tuning to stock?

Posted: Sat May 19, 2007 5:57 pm Post subject: Any tuning to stock?

Is there anything I can get tuned on my all stock (minus muffler tips and bills/sabres license plate tag) GTP?

Figure I may as well start small before I jump in to a cold air intake, which might be a bad idea since this car will be on a construction site and wet areas often. I want to keep it daily driver but also let it "be all it can be" with stock weather proof parts Razz

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Posted: Sat May 19, 2007 11:26 pm Post subject:

accumulate yourself a 3" downpipe, a 3.4 pulley, autolite COPPER 104s and a cold air intake...then find a DHP 1.0 or a ZZP pcm and do it all at once (well...save the pulley for last). That's your best bet. The DHP will probably command too much timing for a bone-ass-stock car.

When you're done with that, leave it alone and enjoy.
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Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 7:32 am Post subject:

If your staying with a stock pulley and what not, you can have your tranny settings improved, such as shift RPM, shift time, line pressure, etc.... If you plan on staying stock for a long, long time.

Thier are many other things that can be adjusted to add more performance from teh stock PCM code.

Best way to do that is find a club member willing to help you with thier tuner, or buy a custom tune from Holland Motor Sports, ZZP, or DHP.

But, you might as well do the exhaust and intake work and pulley(like Matt said), because you will have to do the PCM again anyway after you mod.
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Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 9:53 am Post subject:

I don't think a CAI is going to be a problem in dusty/dirty conditions. Must good setups use 9" cone filters (K&N or eqiv.) They pull air from behind the drivers side headlight, so unless you drive through mud and water that high up, you are OK. Only the fender well setup would possibly suck up much more crap the Stock airbox.
The cone has much more surface area then stock panel style, so you get better air flow then stock new even when cone is dirty. You will have to change your stock filter more often in those conditions, and you would have to clean your K&N more often then a freeway cruiser also. The K&N is reusable, you wash and reoil them, will last life of car. A CAI should be a first mod for you. It is an easy change back to stock for a dealer visit if your concerned about warrenty.
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Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:03 am Post subject:

thanks for the suggestions.

bluto2000GS, would their be a way to have the car remain stock tuned when in drive but when in the manual TAPshift mode have all the "tuned" settings? I've heard the stock calibration really hurts the torque management and advancing the timing just a bit for a true 93 octane would be nice. (althought I do like sticking in less pocket pinching sunoco 91)

I'll look into the different CAI options, pretty simple to put in by the looks of them.

From my understanding the Series III SC engine has a more efficient blower on it and you can get bigger results from closer to stock pulleys, like a 3.5/3.6. The compG also has a beefier transmission from what I was told so I suppose anything up to the 303HP GXP numbers is well within limits.

Then again I'm not really familiar with SCed engines so I don't know how much power each one gains. Heck right now, stock the car burns the tires all the way threw first, adding second gear would be a nice treat Smile

So this is how the bug starts....

Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:40 am Post subject:

Leaving it physically the same, there are still improvements that can be done in the PCM regarding torque management. Seeing as you have an 04 as well, I could help you out with that. All changes would be full-time, not just in TAP-Shift. The only thing you can do TAP-specific is change the rev limiter points, but that's not really useful on a stock valvetrain.

I went straight to a 3.4 (with the mods the others listed) without any significant KR...but different cars have different reactions....
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Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 11:42 am Post subject:

Interested to know who told you the GXP has a better transmission.

If the answer is "a guy at the dealerhip" then that explains a lot..............

You're only going to see minimal gains, if at all, changing anything on a stock car...and when you mod you'll be doing it all over.

A DHP is a very easy swap and you might as well just do the supporting mods while you're at it.

Otherwise...you're just shooting in the dark changing stuff and paying for a dyno tune isn't cheap either.

Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 12:41 pm Post subject:

Was at a car show and a Pontiac specialist told me so Razz

Well more or less said the GTP CompG's transmission is designed to take more hard shifting and down shifting abuse.

They have different RPO codes to if memory serves me right. I think I read something about it on ClubGP too.
EDIT: here's info on the CompG package: http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=3409269&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1 says something about the 2-1 shift.

Here's the GM information on the transmission, what actually pertains to the 04's I don't know.:
MN7 (GTP/GXP) http://media.gm.com/us/powertrain/en/product_services/2007/Whats%20New/07_MN7.doc
M15 (standard tranny) http://media.gm.com/us/powertrain/en/product_services/2007/Whats%20New/07_M15.doc
Doing a little research points on that there really isn't that much difference I guess. END EDIT.

I'll build my wallet up and see what I come up with Smile

Thanks for all the input thus far guys.

Posted: Sun May 20, 2007 1:05 pm Post subject:

Because i just don't know, I assume there is no longer"performance shift" but rather now you have tap shift.

In the cars with "perf shift" you could keep all shift times, rpms etc... all stock, but change only the "perf shift" parameters.

While there is not a "lot" to be gained, you can make the car feel better by changing tranny setting. In theory it should make you a little quicker. If you drive aggressive, changing the shift time is a very good idea. Shorter shift durations stop the clutch packs from slowely shifting into gear which creates more friction, heat, and material breakdown.

As Brian mentioned, he can help you.

Also keep in mind not only is the cars performance limited by hardware(pullies, t-stat. plugs, exhaust, etc) it is really strangled by its computer PCM.

The right tune can help even a basically stock car.

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 4:04 am Post subject:

Its probibly due to a heavier foot more than anything when in tapshift but the shifts to seem firmer when in that mode.

I'll just keep loading up the savings account and for now continue exploring my options.

Another quick question, anyone have any experience with any scan tools that they liked? I know I can just to advance auto for free scans but I'm gonna miss being able to check and diagnose my own codes like I could do with my fathers Deville (by simply holding the off and warmer button of the climate control the car has its own on board OBDII code reader and you can change other miscellaneous things to.)

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 8:34 am Post subject:

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 9:38 am Post subject:

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 2:15 pm Post subject:

On 97-03 GP's with digital dual climate control

Simultaneously push and hold the temp dials for both driver and passenger side for 5+ seconds.

Display changes to -00
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3.25/1.9/DHP/TOG/BORLA/M90PORT/

Posted: Thu May 24, 2007 9:57 pm Post subject:

If u plan on modding alot more and own a laptop, Id get HP Tuners or DHP Powrtuner.

I also have a handheld "real time" scan tool/code readed/clearer.
I forget the name...its orange and they sell them at Advance Auto. I picked it up for $275. Most just for the ease of not needing a laptop for easy scanning. BUT, that handheld does NOT display KR (knock retard)

Shoot me a PM if you need your car scanned, or need a hand with anything.
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Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 9:13 am Post subject:

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